Sleeping Beauty Bloomers

The tutorial for Sleeping Beauty bloomers. I made these for Halloween 2017. We went to the Disneyland Paris Halloween Party, and I knew that it was going to be freezing! These were made from pink and blue cotton flannel that I had lying around, then finished with a zip up the back and a hook and eye. During this tutorial I used both an overlocker and a domestic machine. For flannel I would suggest finishing the edge in some way as it frays quite badly.


Step 1. (Picture 1) So for these bloomers I used a pretty old pattern that my mam had lying around. It was actually a daytime trouser pattern for holiday wear, and I just modified it slightly. I knew early on that I wanted it to be pink and blue as I had already picked out a rainbow fabric for my dress. So instead of folding the fabric I cut one front and one back of each colour. That included the matching bows. (Picture 2)

Step 2. (Picture 3) I made the waistband from the blue fleece simply because I had more of it and couldn’t be bothered to cut the waistband in half to make it from the two colours. I then used an iron on interfacing to add some strength and stiffness, it also helps to stop the fleece from stretching as it was sewn. Make sure to transfer all your markings across! (Picture 4)

Step 3. (Picture 5) As a point of personal preference I overlocked all of the edges except the top and gusset (the seam that runs between your legs). You can overlock every pattern peice before you do anything or overlock the seams after sewing. The reason I choose to do part was because I knew I would want to press the seams open instead of pushing them to one side (normally the back).

Step 4. (Picture 6) There are two darts in each panel, front and back, this is to provide a tailored shape. I always have trouble with darts and getting the point right, and one of the most helpful things my mam has taught me is to draw a line in tailors chalk from your markings at the edge of the fabric to the point where the dart should end. It sounds basic but it’s so helpful!

Step 5. (Picture 7) For the front seam you can add stay stitching, which is a simple line of stitching within your seam allowance to stop any stretching. Make sure to match up all of your notches and markings, then sew your seam.

Step 6. (Picture 8) If you are following the pattern instructions you will notice that it tells you to ‘press’ your clothing. This is a technical term for ironing the seams, as it ‘presses’ them open. I like to do this as it keeps your garment presentable and makes it easier to finish off.

Step 7. (Picture 9) By sewing a 1.5 cm seam in the back of the trousers I made it easier to get an overlap that covered the zip once the trousers were finished. I added the zip as normal, sewing with a basic zipper foot. Starting about 1cm down, I sewed down the left side catching both the main fabric and the seam allowance, then across the bottom to secure the zip and seam, and back up the right. I pressed the zipper again just to make sure the fabric would cover the zip and lie flat. (Picture 10) Finally I unpicked the seam so that the zip could open!

Step 8. (Picture 11) When you sew the gusset seam from the end of the zip be sure to leave a 3 cm approximate gap for the side seams. Then sew the side seams, this means matching blue front to blue back ECT. I did the outside seams first as they stop about 6 cm from the bottom to have a little slit and the bows. These have already been overlocked so I just used a simple lockstitch. Then the inside seam is sewn all the way, top to bottom. (Picture 12) Repeat this on the other side.

Step 9. (Picture 13) Finish the gusset from the front to the back, opening the seams out so they lie flat and aren’t pushed one way or another as this helps to reduce bulk against you when sat down or moving. As always reinforce these joins with backstitches. I have also added a line of reinforcement stitching about 1 mm from the main stitching inside the seam allowance, this goes the length of the gusset. This is because this seam will see the most movement and wear and tear when wearing.

Step 10. (Picture 14) I then pressed everything. For the gusset just do as best you can for the curve and get it as flat as possible so that everything will lie flat. At this point I spent a few moments checking the zip as I was ironing to make sure there was no puckering where the seam joined the end of the zip. (Picture 15)

Step 11. (Picture 16) Start the waistband from whichever end you want to be the shortest or the underneath for the hook and eye closure. I started on the right side, matching ends and notches.

Step 12. (Picture 17) At the other end there should be an overlap of a few centimetres. Once you get to the end continue stitching so that the waistband is sealed. Sew up the side as well so that you can’t get into the waistband. Then cut the corners, this helps reduce bulk when the waistband is turned. (Picture 18) The pictures also show how I ironed the waistband to help me to follow the 1 cm seam.

Step 13. (Picture 19) Return to the unfinished seam at the bottom of the legs. First sew the seam allowance left at the bottom of the outside seam. I did this by simply folding it over and making a ‘U’ seam. As the fabric was overlocked I didn’t have to worry about finishing the fabric. After that sew the hem. I just folded mine over once and pressed it.

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